Malaysian Herbal Rice Salad

(Nasi Ulam)

Malaysia

I first encountered this extraordinary main-dish rice salad, nasi ulam (sometimes called nasi kerabu), in Terengganu, on the northeast coast of peninsular Malaysia, when I visited a small tea shop that was closing for the night. It was the only food available.

“It’s an old Nyonya dish,” explained the cook, a friendly Chinese woman who began to assemble it for me. I watched as she placed handfuls of tropical herbs so finely chopped they resembled green lace atop a small mound of rice. She deftly mixed everything together, offering me a taste so she could adjust the seasonings to suit my palate. It was amazingly aromatic, like no other rice salad I’d ever had. I was an immediate convert.

Nasi ulam’s flavors are not set in stone. Some cooks prefer to emphasize citrusy herbs, such as lemon basil and kaffir lime leaves, while others favor herbs that have more bite, such as Vietnamese basil. Many cooks in Malaysia prefer to buy nasi ulam herb bundles at their local markets. These bundles often include torch-ginger flower (bunga kantan), a bright-pink gladiola-like bud with a musky taste, and daun kaduk, peppery-tasting glossy green leaves that grow alongside rice paddies. To make a Westernized version of this rice salad, try substituting fresh dill, chervil, and a little marjoram or oregano (not too much, or the dish will taste bitter) for the Asian herbs. But whatever herbs you use, the best way to chop them is to roll them into a tight bundle and slice them, crosswise, as thinly as possible with the sharpest knife you own. Be sure to use the freshest, sweetest shallots you can find—old, harsh-tasting shallots can overpower this dish.

For best results, use rice that’s at room temperature; warm rice will cook the delicate herbs, while cold rice will result in a hard, unpalatable dish.

Makes 4 servings as the main course, 6 servings as a side dish

About 50 fresh lemon basil leaves OR fresh Asian basil leaves OR Italian sweet basil leaves (approximately 1 small bunch)
About 35 fresh mint leaves (approximately 1/2 small bunch)
About 60 fresh Vietnamese basil leaves (also known as daun laksa, daun kesum, polyganum, or rau ram—not to be confused with the anise-smelling, purple basil often called Thai basil) OR fresh cilantro leaves (approximately 1 small bunch)
1 thick stalk of fresh lemongrass
3 whole fresh or frozen kaffir lime leaves
4 tablespoons small dried shrimp
4 heaping tablespoons finely ground toasted coconut
3 shallots, peeled and sliced very thinly lengthwise (about 2.5 ounces total, 75 g)
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
5 cups (800 g) freshly cooked jasmine rice at room temperature, made from approximately 2 cups (420 g) uncooked rice
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon finely ground black pepper

1. Roll the lemon basil leaves into a tight bundle and, with a very sharp knife, slice them crosswise into the thinnest possible pieces; you should have about 5 heaping tablespoons of the sliced herb. Set aside.

2. Roll the mint leaves into a tight bundle and, with a very sharp knife, slice them lengthwise into the thinnest possible pieces; you should have about 3 heaping tablespoons of the sliced herb. Set aside.

3. Roll the Vietnamese mint leaves into a tight bundle and, with a very sharp knife, slice them lengthwise into the thinnest possible pieces; you should have about 5 heaping tablespoons of the sliced herb. Set aside.

4. Cut off the hard, brown bottom and the bristly, greenish top of the lemongrass, which should leave you with a pale, white-and-lilac piece approximately 5 inches (12 cm) long. Discard the tough outer 2 or 3 layers. With a very sharp knife, cut the lemongrass on the diagonal into the thinnest possible slices—as close to paper-thin as you can manage. (The lemongrass will be difficult to chew if it’s sliced too thickly.) Set aside.

5. With a very sharp knife, remove the tough center vein and hard stem of each kaffir lime leaf. Cut the leaves lengthwise into the narrowest possible slices—as narrow as a strand of hair, if your knife will allow it. (The lime leaves will be difficult to chew if they’re sliced too thickly.) Set the sliced lime leaves aside.

6. Place the dried shrimp in a small food processor and pulse until you have a fine powder resembling sawdust. Set the powdered shrimp aside.

7. In a large bowl, place the sliced herbs, the sliced lemongrass, the sliced lime leaves, the powdered shrimp, and the rice. With a large spoon (or, better yet, your hands, which will allow you distribute the ingredients more evenly), combine the ingredients together until the herbs and the rice are well combined and the rice is free of clumps.

8. Add the salt and pepper. (Because the herbs and shallots have an intense taste, you may need to add less than 1 teaspoon of salt—it’s up to you.) Combine the salt and pepper with the other ingredients, and taste for seasoning. This dish should be neither salty nor acidic. It should be subtle and earthy, with the clean taste of each herb clearly coming through. If it needs it, add a pinch more salt and a squeeze of lime juice.

9. Transfer to a serving bowl and eat at once. The herbs in this dish will wilt and lose their punch if allowed to sit for longer than 30 minutes.